Irvington: The land of pleasant living

Robert “King” Carter was a commanding presence in the early days of the Northern Neck, presiding over his Corotoman plantation from the late 1600s to 1732, near a Rappahannock River tributary that bore his family’s name. He had a grand style, building a magnificent manor house and paying for the construction of Christ Church, an imposing structure that stands today.

Throughout the 19th century settlers built homes along the banks of Carter’s Creek in lower Lancaster County. As a thriving river trade developed, the community was known simply as Carter’s Creek, or Carter’s Creek Wharf.

By 1891 an enterprising newspaper editor decided the town needed a proper name. After much deliberation, it was named Irvington, in honor of Capt. Levin Handy Irving, who was among the early settlers.

Irvington became a bustling town as it approached the 20th century, but the growth was completely dependant on the water trade. Roads were practically non-existent, with steamboats making the run from Baltimore to Fredericksburg stopping regularly at the Carter’s Creek wharf.

Among the businesses in Irvington at the turn of the century was the Irvington Beach Hotel, a resort that drew visitors from far and wide. The hotel, and the idyllic setting, helped establish Irvington’s reputation for gracious hospitality and pleasant living.

Some things never change. Today, that reputation endures, thanks in part to two of Virginia’s finest inns, the Hope & Glory and the Tides Inn. It’s been said that many Irvington residents are former guests at these two establishments who enjoyed their visits so much they decided to stay.

Starting June 20, visitors and residents alike will be able to explore Irvington’s historic connection to the steamboat when the Steamboat Era Museum opens, at 156 King Carter Drive. The museum, which will be open Thursday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and Sundays by appointment, will be filled with exhibits that demonstrate just how important these vessels were to Irvington.

“From 1860 to about 1930 the steamers brought in just about everything used in Irvington. There were no roads and no railroads. The water was the main transportation link,” said museum director Dianne Jordan.

Many steamers arrived daily at Carter’s Creek Wharf. Among them was the Potomac. When the boat was scuttled, its pilothouse was removed and used as a summer cottage at White Stone Beach. Today, the pilothouse sits on the museum grounds, awaiting restoration by museum volunteers.

“Our opening exhibit is called “Lifeline To The Chesapeake,” and will contain lots of photographs and mementos from the steamers. It will show how the Northern Neck, not just Irvington, was dependant on steamboats,” Dianne said.
Visitors to Irvington will also want to visit Christ Church, which was completed in 1735. A National Historic Landmark, Historic Christ Church is recognized as the finest colonial church in North America.

The church, built in the shape of a cross, is of massive construction with three foot thick brick walls. Original limestone slabs still pave the floor and a three-level pulpit towers over individually enclosed, high-backed pews.

The reception center, museum and gift shop are open April-November. Guided tours are offered Monday-Saturday 10 a.m.-4 p.m., and Sunday 2-5 p.m. The church is open year round and is located on Route 646, just outside of town.

Irvington’s business community is thriving, with a number of upscale shops and an excellent restaurant, the Trick Dog Café. The farmers market, on the first Saturday of the month, is the area’s place to meet and greet. So it’s no surprise that Irvington maintains its lure, drawing those who appreciate the region’s leisurely pace.

(c) Northern Neck Buyers Guide. All rights reserved. .